Metal Roof End Caps

Metal Roof End Caps

How to Install Ridge Cap Now that we’ve installed panel on both sides of the valley, we have to close off the ridge lines. On the right-hand side, we have an open ridge, so we’ll be installing a ventilated ridge. And on the other side, the ridge is closed. The installation of the ridge cap is the same as the hip cap. We use a Z-trim and make sure to have tape seal underneath the Z-trim and between the ridge cap and the top of the Z. You cut Z-trims for the top of your panels. You use your ridge cap to mark the ribs so that you know where to place the Z-trims. Once the Z-trim has been fastened to the roof panel, you position your ridge cap and fasten it to the Z-trim using POP rivets. If you want to finish the ridge cap at the gable, let it over hang by about an inch, make your marks, and bend it down. The result is a nice clean look, and it will ensure that water doesn’t get in between the top of the gable trim and the underside of the ridge cap. Next, we’re going to start working on the vented ridge in this application for SL-16. Venting a ridge is very important for any kind of roof and there are a lot of things we must consider. Soffit Venting vs Gable Venting Every building is different, and every house, every building has to be evaluated based on the construction and what’s taking place inside the roof cavity, what kind of insulation there is. Generally, there’s a lot of confusion about venting soffit and ridge versus gable venting. So one important note is to make sure that you’re using either a ridge vent in combination with open soffits or you’re using gable venting, but that you’re not combining the two. If you combine the two, cross airflow cancels each other out and you end up with a much less effective venting of your roof cavity. In this particular installation, we have open soffits, so we’re going open the ridge line so that we can install our panel and the profile vent material. Venting a Soffit We’re going to start by making an opening 2” on either side of the ridge. I’ve made a pencil mark 2” here and here. I’m going to snap a chalk line and that’s going to serve as my cut. Now we have a chalk line 2 inches from the center of the ridge and I’m going to cut this using a circular saw to make sure that the ridge is vented in combination with the soffit vents. A ***** tip before we start cutting: set the depth of your blade so that you’re really only cutting through the decking of the wood. In this case, we have ¾” plywood, so I’m going to set the depth of the blade to give or take an inch or 3/4 of an inch. This ensures that I don’t cut through trusses. As you get to a gable or in this case, a sidewalk, you want to stop 1 or 2 **** short with your cuts. In this case, I’m going to stop just about here with my cuts. Installing a Vented Ridge Cap Now we’re ready to deal with a vented ridge cap. As you can see, we’ve made a cut 2 inches on either side of the center line of the ridge. We now have to install a ridge cap with the vented ridge material. I’m going to use an ABC vented ridge material that’s been die cut to fit the SL-16 panel. We’re going to install it using the clip system and tape seal on the underside. The ***** thing that we want to do is make our mark so that we know where to position the profile vent. Then, I’ll put the ridge cap in place, mark the tops of the ribs and line it up with the ridge line. I’m going to take my pencil and make a mark on my ribs. Once I remove the cap, I know that I need to line up the profile vent with the marks that I have just made. Installing the Clips The profile vent system consists of the vented material and the clips. The ***** thing that we have to do is install two clips per SL-16 panel and then thread the profile vent through the clips. The way that the clips are installed is, we have our mark here on the rib, so we know where the ridge cap ends and we want to make sure that the profile vent is a good 1 inch behind that line. So I’m going to position my clip right about there and I’m going to screw in through the pilot hole at the top of the clip. Once the clip is in place, I’m going to put the ***** screw through. Now we have an installed clip. The way it’s designed is you just lift the clip up so that we can put the profile vent in. I’m going to install the second clip so that we can thread the profile vent material through it and fasten it to the roof deck. Now that I’ve had the two clips installed, I’ve bent them both up so I can thread the material through. We are going to go ahead and install it, bring the two clips down. And all that’s left to do is put a screw through the back of each one to hold it down. That’s one, and now I’m going to install the fastener at the back of the clip, and you can see that there is a pre-drilled hole to make life a lot easier. Once that’ done, we have the installation of two clips with a profile vent held securely in place. Fastening the Ridge Cap to the Clips So now that we have the profile vent installed, we’ve used two clips per SL-16 panel. The next thing to do is put the ridge cap in place and fasten it to each of these clips. So that’s what we’re going to do now. So I’m going to position the ridge cap, making sure that it’s aligned with the center of the ridge. And the profile vent, we’ve kept it back from the line, because we don’t want it visible to the ***** eye when people are looking up at the ridge line. So make sure that it’s back at least an inch, and you can then go back an inch and a half to two inches. Now that the ridge cap is in place, I’m going to go ahead and fasten it to the clips using stitch screws. So I’ve secured the ridge cap to the clip using a stitch screw, and I’m going to do that the whole length of the ridge, and then the ridge cap will be securely fastened to the roof.
metal roof end caps 1

Metal Roof End Caps

Metal roofing is a common choice as a roofing material, as it is designed to last longer than composite shingles or other similar protective coverings. Once the long metal roofing panels are installed on a pitched roof, a roof cap is installed at the peak of the roof to prevent water from getting beneath the roof panels. A properly installed ridge cap for metal roofing will also have barriers installed to keep water from being driven up and under the ridge cap.
metal roof end caps 2

Metal Roof End Caps

Position a section of metal ridge cap over the peak of the metal roof, with the end of the ridge cap flush with one end of the roof peak. Mark a pencil line on the ridges of the installed metal roofing panels, using the edge of the ridge cap as a guide. Remove the ridge cap from the roof peak.
metal roof end caps 3

Metal Roof End Caps

1Position a section of metal ridge cap over the peak of the metal roof, with the end of the ridge cap flush with one end of the roof peak. Mark a pencil line on the ridges of the installed metal roofing panels, using the edge of the ridge cap as a guide. Remove the ridge cap from the roof peak.
metal roof end caps 4

Metal Roof End Caps

How to Install Hip Cap Now that we’ve installed panel on both sides of the hip, we can install the hip cap. We’re going to install it using Z trim, and you have the option of using either pop rivets for a ****** fastener application, or you can use stitch screws for an exposed fastener application. Today, we’re going to be using pop rivets for a concealed fastener installation. Concealed Fastener Hip Cap Installation *****, we’re going to position the hip cap so that I can mark the tops of the ribs with a Sharpie, which will tell me where to put the Z trim. Next, I’ll remove the hip cap, get our Z trim, cut them to length, and install them. In the same way that we use Z trim for the installation of end wall flashing and sidewall transition, we’re going to do the exact same thing here on the hip. Here I have a longer length. I’m going to put it in place by lining it up about a half-inch behind the marks that I made with the Sharpie. I’m going to get it into place and make cut lines. Remember, Z trim must be cut at an angle on the hip trim. Cut & Install Z Trim Now that the Z trim’s been cut, as always, we apply tape seal to the bottom of it before installing it. We’ll take the backer off, and as you can see, I always leave half an inch between the outside edge and the tape seal so that when it gets fastened down, it doesn’t squish out and become visible to people looking up at the roof. As always, we set it back about a half an inch from the line, just like so, so that we’re sure the Z trim won’t be visible when we put the hip cap on. I’m going install these using pancake head fasteners, and, once that’s done, we can install the hip cap. Preparing the Eave & Ridge Cap Ends I just installed the last piece of Z trim and now we’re ready to install the hip cap. *****, we’re going to put the hip cap in place and mark it so that we can prepare the end here at the eave and the top at the ridge. We’re going to get the hip cap in place and let it overhang at the eave so that I can make marks and bend it down. This closes it off for a nice finished look where the two joints at the eave are. Now I’ve marked the top side of the hip cap in line with the eave, and I’m making a ***** mark underneath where the two eaves meet so that I can join those lines and fold it down. I made a mark here on top and another mark over here to show where the eave terminates, and then we went underneath and marked here to show where the two eaves join at a 90-degree angle. I now have to join this mark with the two marks that I made on the top, and those will become my bend lines so that we have a nice, clean finished hip cap. These lines become my fold lines. I’ll add two inches to those lines and join them. The two-inch line becomes our cut line, and the original line becomes our fold line. I’m going to cut off the excess and fold this down, then we can bring the cap back so that we have a nice closed finish. Now we have to fold these two. They’re two inches long, which means they’re longer than the depth of our hand bender. Here’s a tip: if you want a crisp bend, you can gently score the metal using a razor blade. We’ll go ahead and do that. I’m very, very gently scoring the metal. If I score it too much, the paint will crack on the other side, so I’m just doing a ***** pass or two. Now that this has been scored, I can bend it by hand. Using my ********-edge as a guide to bend across, I’m going to place the heel of my hand underneath. I’m going to bend this up, and the score in the metal that we did with the razor blade makes a very crisp bend. As you can see, this piece is longer than the other tab, and I’m going to fold it across. We’ve finished the eave end of the hip cap, so we’re going to temporarily put it in place so that we can mark at the ridge line, do a ****** of ***** cuts, and then come back and install it. We’ll put it in place, just to make sure everything fits and to make our marks. We can see that it’s nice and clean here at the bottom. We’re going to hold it in place, and I’ll make a ****** of marks at the ridge line, cut it, and then we can install it. I’m marking here along this ridge and along this ridge. Then we can cut that off and install it. Installing the Hip Cap Now that we’ve finished preparing the eave end and the ridge cap ends of the hip cap, we can install it on top of the Z-bar using pop rivets. Before I do that, we need to apply tape seal along the top of the Z trim. I’m installing tape seal along the top of our Z trim, making sure to keep it back from the leading edge of the Z by about half an inch so that it doesn’t squish out. I’m going to drill holes and install the pop rivets. When you’re drilling the holes for your pop rivets, make sure that you don’t punch through and put a hole in the panel surface, because the drill, as it’s spinning, is going to pull you down. As you feel yourself go through the last layer of steel, ease off a little bit on the speed of the drill. Now that the pop rivets have been installed, the hip cap is finished and we can move on with the rest of our project.

Metal Roof End Caps

Metal Roof End Caps
Metal Roof End Caps