Metal Roof Drip Edge

Metal Roof Drip Edge

Union offers both exposed fastener metal roofing system and concealed fastener standing seam metal roofing systems for residential, commercial, and post-frame metal roofing applications. As the name implies, exposed fastener metal roofing systems use screw fastener system that are visible on the exterior of the metal roof surface after installation. These exposed fastener metal roofing systems are economical, and this type for metal roofing system has been in service for decades, and are extremely popular in a wide variety of residential and commercial metal roofing applications. In concealed fastener metal roofing systems such as our standing seam metal roofing system, the screws are completely concealed and protected by the steel roof surface. This metal roofing system gives standing seam panels very clean, aesthetically pleasing lines. The standing seam metal roofing system also exhibits the very best in weather resistance and durability since the metal roof fastener systems are not exposed to the outside elements. We offer the three primary types of standing seam metal roofing systems; screw flange, snap lock, and mechanically seamed system. Each of these standing seam metal roofing system designs uses a slightly different method to secure the panel to the metal roof.
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Metal Roof Drip Edge

Galvanized metal roofing drip edges are used at the eave of the roof to protect the fascia, provide support for the roofing shingles, and to create an edge where water can shed either into a gutter or away from the fascia. Union offers a wide variety of painted and unpainted galvanized metal roofing drip edges suitable for a broad range of weather conditions. In general, areas with snow and ice or high winds use galvanized metal roofing drip edges with larger decks and heavier gauges. Galvanized metal roofing drip edges are the strongest option for severe conditions.
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Metal Roof Drip Edge

However, the edge receiving the most water on a steep-sloped roof needs the best protection affordable. If the shingles are extended much more than 3/4-1-inch over the edge, they tend to bend, eventually fracturing along the edge of the roof deck below. If the metal edging is left off, this decreases the chance for all of the water cascading over the eaves to make it into the gutters, if indeed there are any. Otherwise, shingles breaking along the line of the roof deck allow the possibility of water getting into the substrate by turning back up under the bottom of the shingle. The deleterious effects of this condition are exacerbated when the underlayment is not fully extending over the edge and/or if the fascia board is not flush with the lower edge of the wood roof deck.
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Metal Roof Drip Edge

Roof edge made from galvanized sheet metal provides protection from water intrusion at the sides and lower edges of a roof. Also known as drip edge, the L-metal is installed after the fascia and felt underlay and before the roofing is installed. Metal edging is relatively easy to handle, and it’s not difficult to install. The main concern is making sure the corners and peak of the roof are protected. Do this using a method that’s proven reliable by roofing contractors.
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Metal Roof Drip Edge

Many times the roof deck is installed early on in the project and covered with felt in order to dry the house in and speed up the interior work below. Roofers will hurriedly run a cutter along the edge of the wood deck, but rarely do it in a straight line. This leaves the edge of the felt somewhat short of the edge, thereby failing to overhang the roof deck. It only gets worse when the (usually 3/4-1″ thick) fascia board is added later when the finish work is being done. This makes the felt edge that much farther from the true drip edge.
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Metal Roof Drip Edge

This should point out to builders to specify, install, and insist on adequate metal drip edge to give residential clients the most value for a relatively low-cost item. It is ironic that contractors who leave out the metal drip edge in an effort to save money lessen the long-term value of a home. It is an issue whose absence and consequential side effects may take years to discover. But, in all fairness to the consumer, it is an item that should be included to proved a quality installation.
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Metal Roof Drip Edge

Obviously, the most critical location for drip metal is exactly at the location of the majority of the drips-the eaves! Rake edges should also get metal edging, but it is simply not as critical. And the installation sequence of the edge metal with the felt underlayment is optional in most manufacturers’ printed instructions. You can install the felt either on top of or below the edge metal. And since water travels somewhat parallel to the rakes, this does minimize the need for coverage.

Metal Roof Drip Edge

Position a piece of 2-by-2-inch metal roof edge at the lower edge of the roof, with the beveled side against the outer surface of the fascia and the flat side atop the felt underlay. If fascia is not included, fit the beveled side against the outer edge of the sheathing or starter board.
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1Position a piece of 2-by-2-inch metal roof edge at the lower edge of the roof, with the beveled side against the outer surface of the fascia and the flat side atop the felt underlay. If fascia is not included, fit the beveled side against the outer edge of the sheathing or starter board.
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Then, the metal roofing panel will be secured by the special screws at the top. After that, you can secure the panel by installing special holding brackets/metal clips, and secure them with the screws to the roof deck. You will find that metal clips will have two holes, one will be closer to the metal roofing panel, while the other will be farther away. I recommend that you only use one screw to secure the metal clip through the farther/outside hole that is away from the panel. This will help prevent dents in the panel due to thermal expansion and contraction of the panels.
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* Sheet metal hand seamer aka folder or crimping tool. * Drill/Driver * Wood cutting: For minor wood repairs, a cordless reciprocating saw. * Hammer, rubber mullet, tool belt, metal snips/shears, tape measure. * Safety rope, anchor and harness, and knowledge/experience using it, work safety plan, and first aid kit. * Safe to use and adequate Ladder. * Tear off/roof stripping tools, heavy duty contractor bags, and a dumpster to dispose of old shingles. * Pre-measured and Pre-cut Standing Seam Metal Roofing panels at work site. * System specific screws and flashing details for your roof. * Roofing Underlayment, Ice and Water, nails with colored caps.

(If you live in a northern climate, then install one layer of Ice-and-Water right underneath your roof underlayment, adhering it (Ice-and-Water) straight to the roof’s deck with a half an inch of overlap past the eave’s edge.) You will also need to install ice and water in the valley/valleys of your roof.
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Once all the necessary metal trim/flashing is installed, you can begin installing your first metal roofing panel. You will have to cut, and bend about an inch of the panel underneath (forming a hook) so that we can hook it onto the starter trim/drip edge.
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Once you have all the necessary tools, and materials on site, You will need to prepare your roof deck for the installation of a new metal roof. It is generally recommended that you perform a complete tear off of your old/existing roof so that you can get an opportunity to replace any rotten wood or plywood underneath the asphalt.
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Repeat the previous step and install edging at the side of the roof, as necessary, to reach the peak of the roof. Overlap each piece onto the end of the lower piece as before. Allow the end of the uppermost piece to extend beyond the peak of the roof.
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6Repeat the previous step and install edging at the side of the roof, as necessary, to reach the peak of the roof. Overlap each piece onto the end of the lower piece as before. Allow the end of the uppermost piece to extend beyond the peak of the roof.
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Hand over your roof diagram with all the details and roof dimensions, and show them pictures of your roof. Based on the information you provide, roofing supply shop will order the panels and flashing for your job. Here you can also buy all the necessary tools, and safety equipment.
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Install synthetic breathable roof underlayment in a horizontal fashion, with sufficient tension in the underlayment from one side of the roof to the other. You will want to start at the eaves with a slight overlap of the roof deck, and nail down the first row of underlayment.
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For most homeowners and DIY enthusiasts, a standing seam metal roof installation is not a do it yourself project. But for those few who dare, let this serve as an introductory educational guide on how to install metal roofing on a small shed or a free standing garage. if nothing else, you can still benefit from the basic conceptual understanding of the metal roofing installation process provided in this guide.